Facing the Start of the End

It´s been two weeks since my last post.  I´ve been busy but at the same time it has been a holiday, compared with the two weeks before.

I left Granada and bimbled up to the Sierra Nevada mountains for a few days.  In that time I put in a 10-hour day climbing Mulhacen, the highest mountain in continental Spain at 3482m.  This turned out to be more of a struggle than I expected!  I camped at a town called Guejar Sierra, which isn´t the usual starting point for Mulhacen, but it is much closer to Granada.  As a result I had 2400m of ascent over the course of 15km, and that was only to get there!  The initial 10km were quite easily angled, but once above 2000m the ground steepened and became much rougher.

Happy at the summit, with the North Face behind me.

I arrived at the summit cold and tired but with fantastic views inland.  Unfortunately there was a layer of cloud obscuring the views towards Africa, but even so the panorama was spectacular.  I happened to meet two Spanish walkers on the way up, who had started at the ski centre on the other side of the mountain.  There the road runs up to 2400m, so they had only 1000m to climb!  However they had no map so didn´t quite know if they were on the correct mountain...

Searching beyond the clouds for a glimpse of Africa

I had left the campsite at 0830 and it was now 1530, so I had to get a wriggle on to get home before dark.  I jogged down from the summit to about 2000m and then tiredness hit.  It was a slow walk back to the roadhead.  Once on the road I had 7km to the campsite, but thankfully I was offered a lift my some nice Granadians.  The only downside that my embarrassing lack of Spanish was exposed as they had no English!  They dropped me off at 1930 and I quickly cooked up a storm on my stove and fell into bed.

My next stop turned out to be Marbella!  I hadn´t planned on staying here but the foibles of the Spanish road system meant the only way forward was the motorway, which I didn´t fancy on the bike.  I ended up in Marbella for 5 days, as I was feeling particularly drained.  I think the 455-mile week to Granada and day on Mulhacen had pretty much emptied the tanks.

I left on the bus for a 20-mile jaunt to the end of the motorway and headed for Gibraltar.  I´ve always wanted to go because of the place it holds in history.  One of the Pillars of Hercules, the last bastion of Europe before Africa and the vital role it played in World War II combine in an aura of non-reality in my mind.

First sight of Gibraltar!

However, it is real and very noisy.  There is so little land that everything is packed tightly in, with history seemingly blowing with the wind.  I found a hostel and sat in the main square, taking it all in.  The draw of height saw me making my sweaty way up the Rock itself, passing all sorts of military constructions, from the Moors to WW2.  Eventually I was on the edge, looking over the town and towards Africa on one side and gazing over the cliffs and Spain on the other.

As I moved along the ridgeline I passed the Apes and Africa began to glow in the setting sun.  It is so close!  I could see buildings and lights, with the Rif mountains rising from the shore with endless ranges behind them.  At once I felt excitement and anticipation for the next step of the journey, while also feeling a tinge of sadness at the trip coming to an end.  A strange feeling compared to how I was in Barcelona a month ago!

From the Rock, over the Straits to Morocco and the Rif Mountains.

The next day I met Mum and Dad in Algeciras.  They have come out for a week in the sun, and I´m staying with them until Friday.  How strange it was to see them here!  I have spent less than 3 weeks in their company since Christmas so being able to relax and chat with nowhere in particular to go is bliss.

Helpfully checking my mane for bugs.  I´m just a dirty tourist...

We are all going to Morocco tomorrow (Friday 15th), Mum and Dad for the day and me until I come home.  I still don´t have a route in mind, or much knowledge about food and accommodation there so I have lots to do before I go!  My flight home is on the 8th December, and I am meeting Riley in Marrakech on the 5th, so I have 3 weeks to explore the country.  Any suggestions welcome!

P.S. I almost got on the radio to talk about the trip in Marbella, and it reminded me about the JustGiving page.  You have raised almost 1000 pounds, so if anyone hasn´t donated yet please be the one to push it over the edge!

UK2Africa JustGiving Page

Thanks for reading, hope to see you all in a month.

John

To the West

The Albufera, a big lagoon just outside Valencia.  They grow rice beside it!

A week on a bike gives you a sore bum. Funny how it´s taken me until now to realise this. I´ve had a few little revelations this week; examples include flies being able to fly at (or above) 10mph, hills are tough and Naturist campsites aren´t worth the cost and giggles.

The Naturist beach.  Thankfully no wobbly Germans in sight.

On Tuesday I passed the 1000 mile mark. It has taken me 89 hrs and 46 mins to reach this milestone so it´s no wonder my behind is filing hourly complaints. Thankfully the complaints department seems to be broken as I appear to forget them all the moment I get off the bike in the evening. My legs have begun to complain quite loudly in the evenings as I squat to cook my tea so I am now taking a few days leisure in Granada.

In 7 days I have covered 455 miles, set a new record daily mileage (75), and a new record top speed (50mph). I have entered Andalucia, my last province of Spain before Morocco. The stereotypical young persons bucket list is one item shorter as I´ve now stayed in a Nudist/naturist campsite. I met 6 other touring cyclists, saw Flamingos in the wild and cycled through Europe´s only desert.



(Left) Frank the colour coded French Canadian cyclist.
(Right) Tabernas desert, only one in Europe.  Where Lawrence of Arabia, Indiana Jones and 500 other films were filmed.

A tough week, all said. Four days were spent on the coast but I soon tired of living amongst the holiday comfort campervans, full campsites of deep brown Brits, Dutch and Germans escaping the reality of Northern Europe´s winters. Tired of the uncomprehending looks when I explain what I´m doing, and of the even more confused mutterings when I refuse a beer. Not because I´m teetotal, but because after a 70-mile day in 30 degree heat I would probably collapse with one sip. These prisoners of the sun are fantastically welcoming and caring, but being so close to home-style familiarity was beginning to mock my current way of life. It´s already a bit of struggle to get going in the mornings, never mind having a full suburban bungalow on wheels next door! So, with some trepidation, I turned right and inland.

Uncertainty about accommodation, food and the terrain faded with every mile uphill. Physically tougher than the Pyrenees due to the heat, not knowing when or if the hills would end was mentally exhausting at times also. In the end it was fine, finding hostels in tiny towns perched on the sides of mountains and water in natural springs in village squares. La Alpujarra is a beautiful area evoking comparisons to the Sperrins but hotter, scrubbier and much, much bigger!

Minging with sweat, snot, flies and pastry on another endless hill

Today I have been a fully fledged tourist, wandering around the castle with my backpack after queueing for ages for a ticket. Feeling like I was stuck in the mud and not making any progress wasn´t fun last week, so finally being one city closer is a relief. Last night I went out for tea and had 3 courses for a tenner, returning to the hostel only to cook a second dinner and go to bed. Eight slices of toast and a cup of sugary tea for breakfast this morning was matched by €20 being spent on a double lunch. I´m currently munching a pack of biscuits and looking forward to another 3 courses later. Perhaps confirmation of energy spent?

From the Alahambra gardens over the city of Granada

This week´s themes have been a mixture of James Vincent McMorrow and John Butler Trio.

Some more relaxing to be done then next stop Gibraltar.  Google says it´s 4 days away!



View from the Alahambra towards the Sierra Nevada mountains

Bye from Fatty!

Name of the Game

Life is good again!  I`ve done about 280 miles over the last 5 days and now I am relaxing in 30 degree heat in Valencia.  Getting on the bike and actually going somewhere has improved my mood massivly.  So much so that I wonder if I was slightly whiney in the last post...

I am here by choice and in the knowledge that it was never going to be easy.  I don`t apologise for the emotion of the last post but I am feeling slightly embarrassed!  Nevertheless it somehow engendered a rather large reaction from all sorts of people  and I am very thankful for all your kind words and support.

This week`s cycling has been mainly coast-hugging.  I used the sea as a navigation aid and kept close to it, finding some deserted roads as a result.

Lunch in Sitges, feeling very sophisticated as the Film Festival was in town

The same roads are pretty bouncy though, and after 1.5 rough days, things started to break.  On Wednesday afternoon my saddle fell apart, a pannier clip popped and I got a puncture.  In the space of 30mins.  In 30 degree heat with no shade.  A moment to savour!  I managed to fix it all with my bag of bits.  No jokes about being too fat for my saddle please!

I continued to cycle and eventually came to a place called Peniscola.  Here I was told of a road that ran through the Nature Reserve for 17km, was really beautiful and just for bikes.  Wonderful news!  I would find camping at the end of the road too, just in time for tea.  So off I pedalled and eventually found myself on an unsurfaced, rock-and-dust track.  Not the sort of place for a heavily laden touring bike!  By this point I had come down some pretty steep hills so resolved to push the bike to the end.  Bad Decision.  I was pushing till 8pm that evening, soaked in sweat and covered in dust.

Stunning scenery on the Death Road

I learned from this episode; never listen to a woman who looks like the school dinnerlady you didn´t like when she talks about the `brilliant road` ahead.  She hasn`t been there, can`t ride a bike and has no idea how heavy my bike is!

Other than that, it`s been quiet.  Very blooming quiet.  In fact, so quiet I got scared!  All along the coast are out-of-season (or out of money) holiday resorts.  Miles of bungalows, apartments and roads to nowhere, all deserted and running with weeds.  No road signs, no shops, no life.  I think I`m going to head inland for the next while!

Another quiet town.  At least it was open!

And now I am in Valencia.  Pleasant city, biggest Oceanarium in Europe apparently.  Biggest entry fee too, 27 Euro!  Not too sure how I`ll spend my time now.  I feel like going to the Oceanarium but the price and ethics of the thing put me off.  I´m not too bothered by old buildings either.  Maybe an open bus tour? Might be a plan!

As far as continuing the cycle goes, Google is directing me inland and saying 8 days to Gibraltar.  This is a lot faster than I had planned, and I don´t have much idea what to see along the way.  Should I spend another day here?  Push on tomorrow and stay in Sierra Nevada mountains for a while?  I don´t really know what I want from the trip now.  I think it has become a mental and physical challenge to find the correct route and see how far I can get in a day, instead of a method of taking in the culture of the area.  There are only so many old buildings I can look at, and only so much time I can spend in a museum!  I will reacha  decision soon.  It is a nice choice to have!

Cheerybye for now.

Moving On

Since the last update quite a bit has happened.  Ross having to return home due to injury is the most important bit of news.  This was a large knock for us both, and I am extremely sad that his trip ended in that way.  However I am sure he is even more gutted.  On the other hand he gets to sleep in clean, nice-smelling beds and will never have to look at a salami baguette again!

Refuelling mid-Pyrenees

I have decided to continue cycling towards Morocco on my own.  I´ve got quite mixed feelings about this; excitement at having an amazing opportunity, sadness to have lost half of the team, and fear of loneliness on the road ahead.  Uncertainty is playing a large part at the minute in that I don´t know how long I can cope in my own company.  This will be the limiting factor in how close I get to Morocco.

I am certain I will experience extremes of emotion along the way.  In a strange way the deepest lows make me feel just as alive as the highest joys, and this feeling of Life is extremely appealing.  It just seems slightly (very?) masochistic sometimes.  Maybe my theme tune should be John Mellencamp...

Hurts So Good

In other news, after Ross left on Tuesday I made my way to Montserrat.  This is a big strange-looking mountain an hour from Barcelona.  It´s made up of hundreds of strange conglomerate towers, all rounded and worn into strange shapes.  Of course there is loads of climbing to be done, but also a lot of praying.

Monastery in the mountain

The campsite on the mountain is very small, perched above the airy abyss and just across from the monastery.  All day and much of the night can be spent listening to the bells and choir singing.  Very soothing until you get woken at 0245 by some form of religious noise pollution!

I spent 3 days on the mountain, exploring on foot and considering the future of UK2Africa.  I did some great running, up to over 1200m and underneath some massive Big Walls.

At the top of the hill, roasting!

Friday came along and I moved back to Barcelona.  I had a visit from Ellie, who arrived Friday evening and left lunchtime today (Sunday).  Although it was a short visit I was so happy to have her around.  We ate, went to the beach and had a wander around the city.  It was a rather large wrench when she left me alone at the airport!  This afternoon was spent in the lowest mood I have been in so far this trip and I seriously considered booking a flight home.

Things fairly picked up once I ate dinner though!  I still miss home but I am once again excited to continue pedalling.  The little things make me happy, like not being able to read the menu, guessing and ending up with roast chicken, gravy and spuds!

Hopefully things will continue to improve apace once I leave the city.  There´s nothing like being surrounded by people to make you feel lonely.

Once again, thankyou to everyone who has been in contact.  I´m thriving on your support.  If anyone wants to join in the cycle or visit please do!

Hairy OUT

Barcelona

Day 18 - 22: Barcelona

We decided to head straight to Barcelona from Solsona. Day 18 dawned cool, overcast and slightly damp which was perfect for us. We had 30miles to go, which is the longest since France. The distance was covered in quick time thanks to the more UK-like weather. 

We hopped in a train from Manresa to Barcelona in the afternoon as it would be pretty dodgy cycling into the big city. Upon arrival we journeyed to the beach (no map) and felt the sea for the first time since Calais. After that trouble was had finding our campsite!

Lazy days on the beach. Have we earned it?

The next few days were comprised of;

1. Getting bitten silly by a mosquito in our tent (I counted at least 93 on me)

2. Wandering around Barcelona centre trying to become sophisticated

3. Eating pizza

4. Going to the beach

5. Going to Decathlon

6. Visiting the zoo

7. Accidentally wandering into dodgy backstreet bookshops/getting invited to illegal cafes

8. Watching huge big storms

At the zoo. Sure why not hire a buggy to save our tired legs?

Ross managed a 1 metre skid in the buggy (downhill though). Are you proud Callum? We saw loads of funny animals and even a dolphin show! They jumped over a rope and did backflips and stuff and the man got thrown up in the air by them and then we went home and got 2 ice creams and chocolate bars each!

Not long after the record-breaking skid

Overall Barcelona is a great place to visit but we'll both be glad to move on.

Thanks everyone for the comments on here and on Facebook. It keeps our spirits up knowing it's cold and wet at home! Thanks too from Alzheimer Scotland as you have raised almost £900 so far.

Another update will appear soon.

John and Ross

Day 17: Oliana-Solsona (50 Km)

Day 17: Oliana-Solsona (50Km)

Boyo it was a hot day today. The morning sun was impressive as it played on the cliffs around the campsite, but became oppressive soon after.

We were planning to get to Solsona today, which is described as a 'monumental town' on our map. Everything was going smoothly until about 1 o'clock when we stopped for lunch.

A recurring problem since Foix has been bread quality. A touring cyclist likes a baguette that's tough enough to survive being strapped to a bike, but soft enough to be a pleasant eat.

Today our lunch was the hardest and driest of all the dry lunches! Combined with the heat this created bad juju and as soon as we set our parched legs in motion again we were confronted by THE HILL. 

This was bigger, longer, steeper, hotter, harder, drier and generally more bother than the Pyrenees all put together.

Us halfway up 'slightly annoying hill' (understatement of the trip...) and we're halfway keeled over.

Eventually we got to the top of some obscure pass at 880m. Not a very nice surprise that climb. The descent was by no means worth the pain but welcome nonetheless. 

It brought us straight into Solsona where we had a lovely chat to the woman in the Tourist Information. A day was almost booked paragliding but the weather didn't look good :(

Our camp was first class tonight with lots of stars for entertainment. I think I'm getting closer to an older way of life - we've nothing to do apart from tell stories and look at the sky in the evenings! Any suggestions welcome!

John and Ross

Day 16: Montferrer to Oliana

Day 16: Montferrer - Oliana

No rest for the wicked. 

We have started making our way south for Barcelona an travelled on some cool roads today, however, we've also been through some sketchy tunnels. 

The road ahead. Stunning views and incredibly hot sunshine. 

The scenery today has been some of the most impressive of the trip. Lots of big crags, winding roads, colourful rivers and deep reservoirs. 

Our target for the day was Oliana, a Mecca for hard sport climbing. It's where the stars and wannabes of the rock world gather for the winter and pull hard. However we must be the keenest of the lot because no-one else was at the campsite! My dreams of bumping into Adam Ondra were smashed. 

 

Ross playing with a Praying Mantis eating a wasp at the campsite. 

Our evening was spent showering in the dark because the electricity wouldn't work, and watching the Barcelona-Celtic match in the bar. The same bar had a roaring fire on so we watched through the window from outside!

That was about it for our second day in Spain. The weather is very hot and humid so hopefully it cools down soon!

John and Ross

Day 15: Andorra de Ville-Montferrer

Day 15: Andorra de Ville-Montferrer

John at the Andorra/Spain Border. 

Today we have travelled down through Andorra and entered into Spain. Quite a lazy day today. We spent the afternoon chatting and drinking Fanta before travelling a few Km to our camp for the night. 

All is well,

Ross & John

Day 14: Merens-Andorra de Ville (58 Km)

De Day 14: Merens-Andorra de Ville (58 Km)

Hills!!!

We had a bit of a lie in this morning and managed to leave the campsite around 1045. Last night we were entertained by a fantastic lightning show that we reckon was in the valley beside us. 

1 hour into the day & our second 'S-Bend'

There isn't much to say about actually going up the hill towards Andorra except that I found it really challenging! 

This photo was taken at an altitude of 1300m. Still a bit to go yet...

We finally made it to the France/Andorra border at around 1400 and to be honest we were both pretty gutted that there wasn't a bit more to see, just a few policemen in huts. The first town we came to is known as 'Pas de la Casa'. We reckon that to gain access to this town you either need to have a funny walk or no teeth-just an observation. Anyway, the town was jam packed with French families who obviously cross the border to make use of the tax free shops. We just bought a couple of hundred boxes of cigarettes & a case of whiskey. We quickly left the town and made our final accent to the top! 

It felt like these signs never ended. 

The town of Pas de la Casa & the road we travelled up. 

I managed to get to the top of the mountain at around 1600 & was over the moon, however, it's a shame that the locals have let the place become such a state. There is rubbish all over the place & 2 petrol stations to stare at. I'm still well chuffed though!

A John Niven at the top. 

A very sweaty, tired Ross Gardiner at the top. 

We had done the hard part & now the fun began. We had 18 miles to go to Andorra de Ville & it was all downhill! 

 Vvvvvvroooooom!

I was averaging about 50 kph going down the hill until the freezing cold rain started. What a dampener, literally. It was still great fun. 

We have checked into a 4* Hotel for tonight & just been out for another pizza. 

Ross & John

Day 13: Tarascon-Merens (40 Km)

Day 13: Tarascon-Merens (40 Km)

HILLS!!!

Today has been another big day for us. We left our camp this morning & headed towards Andorra on the N20, the only road from Toulouse to Andorra. It's quite a busy road but luckily there is a small path at the side where we can cycle. 

Loads of food for big hills. I'm super fed up with Pains au Chocolats. 

 It's been great cycling in the hills instead of constant flat farm land but wow it's a lot harder (Danny, it's like that hill we used to do hill reps on except it doesn't stop after 10). We stopped for lunch in a nice town which I imagine is fair hoaching during the ski season. 

The town has a few natural hot springs which we found to be pretty good to dunk out feet in-well until the constant sulphur smell gets too much. 

I must admit that after lunch the gradient of the hill got a lot steeper & I began to struggle. We kept pushing the pedals until around 1530 where we came to the last campsite marked on the map. Lucky we stopped as a severe weather warning had been issued for storms in the area, luckily they came to nothing. 

...hills I suppose. 

Dinner tonight consisted of a microwave meal from the campsite & 2 ration pack boil in the bags! 

Tomorrows plan is to get to Andorra. Just a mere 25km to the border, however, we still have to climb 1200 meters. 

Leave us some comments please-it's great to hear from people!

Ross & John 

Day 12: Foix-Tarascon (20 Km)

Day 12: Foix-Tarascon (20 Km)

We had a brilliant nights sleep last night in the hotel just outside Foix. After such a hard day yesterday we decided to cycle right to the bottom of the hills today and stop here for the afternoon. Today's been a kind of working day off with lots of bike maintenance and our first washing! 

 Admin Day in the Pyrenees. 

Feeding the ducks like wee boys!

We have just made a massive mushroom curry & caught up with some friends on FaceTime! Our plan is to have a really cold glass bottle of coke and discuss our plan for tomorrow but with 50 miles to go until Andorra it looks unlikely we will get there tomorrow. 

We are going to attempt the road tomorrow but with bad weather forecast and only one road to Andorra we may find ourselves coming back down the hill to rethink out plans. 

Great to speak with good mates on FaceTime :)

Ross & John

Day 11: Toulouse-Foix (89 Km)

Day 11: Toulouse-Foix (92 Km)

Another big day today and boy was it hot!

We stayed in a right dodgey camp site last night so decided to get up early and hit the road. 

It took us quite a while to get out of Toulouse itself but when we did we were greeted with some pretty amazing roads with lots of uphill and obviously lots of downhill runs where we managed to get up to speeds of 50 Km. 

I can't see this photo that well on my phone but this was our first view of the Pyrenees, yeehaaa. 

As the temperature began to rise above 30 degrees I began to slow quite rapidly but after a quick water stop we were back on the road. 

Fields & fields full of Sunflowers. Does anyone know why they are growing them? Seeds? Biomass? Both?

We are now in a hotel in a place called Foix. The shower is amazing!!! We have just been out for some food-pizza & chips! Yummers. 

We now plan on heading in the direction of Andorra but are checking in with the local Tourist Information Centre to see what the craic is. 

Ross & John

Day 10: Bourges-Toulouse

Day 10: Bourges-Toulouse

Toulouse. 

Today we spent the day sitting on a train to Toulouse. 

Not much to report. 

Ross & John

Day 9: Henrichemont-Bourges (35 Km)

Day 8: Henrichemont-Bourges (35 Km)

The day of pictures...

We pass lots of fields everyday,however, this field has been my favourite so far. Lots of flowers. 

Don't really know what to say about this one... ... As you can see I've attached a new rocket to the back of my bike for added propulsion up the hills, winner!!!

2 heavy bikes outside Gare de Bourges.  

It was a hot, hot, hot day today. Not a cloud in site. 

We spent some time watching the French Army prepare for a parade which we then watched the beginning of this evening. Still don't know what it was about though. 

Not something you expect to see this far south of Dover.

We spent our afternoon eating French baguettes and ice lollies whilst resting in the shade of some lovely trees in the middle of town.

We are now in another campsite this evening as the local youth hostel wanted to charge us €25 each for one night in a dodgy dorm. 

Tomorrow we are jumping on the train to Toulouse as we want to get the Pyrenees done before the snow hits. Our plan for the next couple of weeks is; Toulouse-Andorra-Barcelona. Here comes the pain train legs!!

Ross & John

Day 8: Gien-Henrichemont (72 Km)

Day 8: Gien-Henrichemont (72 Km)

Today's been the hardest day for me so far. Lots of hills & roasting sunshine. 

We left Gien quite late this morning and headed west as the main road from Gien to Bourges is too busy for us. We soon made our way back onto the country roads though. 

We have seen quite a bit of the French countryside so far and we are both looking forward to getting into the hills at some point. 

We arrived in Henrichemont around 1630 & with 30 Km to still do to reach Bourges we decided to call it quits for the day & find a suitable place to stay the night. 

Once agin, we are in a campsite. 

I will try & get some better photos from now on. These camp shots are getting a bit boring, eh?

Dinner tonight was lush. LOADS of rice, 2 peppers, an onion and a jar of Korma sauce. Went down a treat. Usually we eat spaghetti and veg with some sort of tomato sauce and an added splash of basil. 

  

We spend all day cycling through the countryside and then we get to the campsite and have nothing to do. Nights become pretty boring. We can't go to the pub/town because we can't leave all our gear in our tents etc. We are thinking about changing our schedule and starting really early in the morning (leave camp for 0700) and going to sleep as the sun sets. 

Aiming to stay in a hostel tomorrow night somewhere. I look forward to the beds and showers! I stink...

Ross & John

Day 7: Fontainebleau-Gien (95 Km)

Day 7: Fontainebleau-Gien (95 Km)

Today's journey has taken us through some magnificent parts of France, wow. 

After a great nights sleep in Font we were on the bikes for around 0900 & with a quick stop at the Boulangerie to stock up on various sweet pastries we were soon back on the road south. Our route today followed various country roads through small French towns, however, ALL the towns were silent. We soon realised that it must be a day of rest for the French. 

We stopped in the town of Montargis for our lunch. I must admit, a weird one today; a loaf of brioche with laughing cow cheese and chorizo. 

So where are we now? Gien. 

The view from our camp. The town of Gien in the backgroud with the River Loire. 

Dave!! the minion keeping me company on the journey-good guy, doesn't talk much though. 

Tomorrow we are heading for the town of  Bourges. 

Ross & John